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Snapped bolts and stripped threads usually come from guessing torque. Enter your bolt size, pitch and grade below for a typical torque value — and always treat it as a reference, not a substitute for your equipment manual.
Typical torque values (reference only)
| Bolt | Grade | Dry torque |
|---|---|---|
| ¼-20 UNC | Grade 5 | ~8 ft-lb (11 N·m) |
| ⅜-16 UNC | Grade 5 | ~31 ft-lb (42 N·m) |
| ½-13 UNC | Grade 5 | ~75 ft-lb (102 N·m) |
| ⅝-11 UNC | Grade 8 | ~215 ft-lb (292 N·m) |
| M8 × 1.25 | Class 8.8 | ~18 ft-lb (25 N·m) |
| M10 × 1.5 | Class 8.8 | ~37 ft-lb (50 N·m) |
| M12 × 1.75 | Class 8.8 | ~63 ft-lb (86 N·m) |
| M12 × 1.75 | Class 10.9 | ~90 ft-lb (122 N·m) |
Disclaimer: these are generic reference values for clean, dry threads. Lubricated, plated or stainless fasteners need 20–40% less. Always check your vehicle or equipment service manual — critical fasteners (head bolts, wheels, suspension) have their own specs and sequences.
FAQ
Dry vs lubricated torque — which do I use?
Use the condition your manual specifies. Oil or anti-seize on the threads reduces friction, so the same wrench setting clamps much harder — over-tightening a lubricated bolt to dry specs can snap it.
Do I need a torque wrench?
For anything structural, engine, wheel or suspension related, yes. A basic click-type wrench covers most garage work; have it calibrated every few years.
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